Shrubs are generally classified
as evergreen or deciduous, although in more temperate areas some
fall between these two groups and are termed partly or semi-deciduous.
Evergreen shrubs provide the permanent
structure of a garden so necessary in the overall landscape design,
especially in winter when deciduous types are dormant. In this regard,
they make excellent backgrounds for deciduous plants. Also, consider
the advantage of permanent plant foliage against a plain house or
fence wall or where a garden division is needed.
Shrubs vary greatly in color, flowering,
size, texture and fragrance. Yes, many
shrubs have wonderful frangrances. Planting these near windows and
entrances to homes enhances their beauty and the value to all.
A properly planted shrub will be
more tolerant of adverse conditions and require much less management
than one planted incorrectly. Planting technique impacts water quality
as it minimizes water, fertilizer and pesticide use. When making
decisions on planting techniques, one should consider how the plant
was grown in the nursery, the plant's drainage requirements, the
soil type and drainage characteristics, and the availability of
irrigation water. The plant should be specifically appropriate to
the site, or the site should be amended to specifically fit the
plant.
THE CHALLENGE: Horticulture researchers
have estimated that 75% of the roots may be lost when digging field-grown
nursery stock. Cultural practices by the nurseryman, such as root
pruning, irrigation, fertilization, root-ball configuration, and
digging techniques, influence the percentage
of harvested roots. Water stress, due to removal of most of the
water-absorbing roots, is the primary cause of transplant failure.
Most water absorption capability within a transplanted root-ball
results from very small diameter roots. These fragile roots are
the first to suffer from excess water loss in newly transplanted
landscape plants.
SOURCES OF PLANT MATERIAL: Landscape
contractors and home gardeners can choose from a wide variety of
plant material in the Houston area. Plants are grown by various
production methods, e.g. bare-root, balled and burlapped, fabric
container and plastic container.
BARE-ROOT PLANTS: Advantages of
planting bare-root plants are mostly economical. Plants are less
expensive to produce because of the ease of harvesting, storing
and shipping. Many species respond well to bare-root harvesting.
A greater portion and longer roots are
retained after harvesting and roots are easily inspected at planting
time. Damaged roots can be trimmed and girdling roots can be removed
before planting. Bare-root plants should be planted while they are
completely dormant.
CONTAINER-GROWN PLANTS: The advantage
of using plants grown in containers is that 100% of the roots are
in the container. Thus, the plant goes through limited transplant
shock if given adequate follow-up care. Container-grown plants can
be planted into the landscape year-round.
Plants produced in containers, in a soilless medium (usually bark
and sand), are much lighter. This is very helpful to home gardeners
who may not have large equipment to handle the heavy plants.
The main disadvantage of container-grown
plants is the possibility of deformed roots. "Rootbound"
plants have roots circling inside the container. The entangled roots
are a physical barrier to future root growth and development. If
this condition is not corrected at planting time, the plant may
experience slow growth and establishment because of the girdled
roots. Some form of root mass disturbance is recommended before
planting.
A relatively new production system
is the use of fabric containers or bags. Plants are grown in the
bags, placed in the ground, with a soil backfill. The advantage
to this production technique is purported to be a means of harvesting
a greater number of roots while using field production practices.
The fabric must be removed at transplanting time. This can be somewhat
of a problem when the roots have become attached to the walls of
the bag, or if roots have escaped through the fabric.
WHAT SIZE PLANT SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?
Smaller plants live better and establish faster than large plants
and are more economical. Many consumers, on the other hand, want
the "instant" landscape look. Demand for large, landscape-size
shrubs has certainly increased over the last decade. With large
mechanical digging equipment, large shrubs can be moved and are
often transplanted for instantaneous effect, but post-transplanted
shrubs stress and costs increase with the size.
PLANTING PROCEDURES: Correct planting
technique begins with the loading of the plant at the nursery or
garden center. Home gardeners and landscapers should be very careful
with plant material. Always protect the roots, stems and foliage
during transport. The plant tops should
be shielded from winds. Never pick up a plant by the trunk. Shrubs
are particularly vulnerable to damage if growth has started. Lift
plants from underneath the rootball with the appropriate equipment.
Container grown shrubs should be handled by the container and never
by the tops of the plant. If plants must be held or stored on the
landscape site, it is best to place them in a location protected
from the wind and sun. Do not let the roots freeze or dry out during
this time. If the delay in planting is more then a few days, one
should "heel in" good potting material by covering the
roots with bark or some other mulch. Supplemental irrigation is
critical for the nursery stock during the growing season.
THE PLANTING HOLE: A current trend
in landscape design is to plant shrubs in large beds. When this
design concept is followed, preparation of the entire plant bed
area and not just individual holes is recommended. In many urban
areas, gardeners will find that the soils
are compacted and sometimes poorly drained. In these situations
one should create a good rootzone by amending the beds with a sandy-loam
topsoil and aerifying the soil as deep as possible. The addition
of organic matter provides little or no advantage to the planting
hole in good soils. Backfill should, in most cases, be the soil
removed from the planting hole: "what comes out...goes back
in". An exception to this would be where entire beds can be
amended to create an homogeneous root-zone. The organic matter,
e.g. compost or composted pine bark, is uniformly mixed with the
soil. This makes room for future growth and increases aeration to
the backfill.
In very poorly drained soils,
drain tile under the beds is necessary. If a french drain or tile
drain is installed, be sure that it drains downhill at a 2% minimum
slope and there is an outlet on the downhill side. When setting
plants, be certain to plant them high. If the poor drainage condition
cannot be corrected, do not plant a shrub in the area, unless it
can tolerate these conditions.
If the soil is sandy and moisture
is difficult to hold, a heavier topsoil can be added. Organic matter
in this situation will be valuable as it improves the water-holding
capacity of the sandy soil. After planting, add a 3- to 4-inch layer
of organic mulch on the soil surface around the plant. This will
conserve moisture, discourage weeds and moderate soil temperatures.
Also be sure to consider the aesthetics of the mulch.
The most important consideration
in planting shrubs is the planting depth. Do not plant too deep.
It is better to plant in a raised manner so the roots will not drown
or suffocate. Dig planting holes 2 to 3 times wider than the rootball
and the same depth. Locate the rootball on solid soil and not loose
backfill. Cut and fold down the top half of the basket, fold back
the burlap, and remove nylon strings. Be sure to remove plastic
liners or synthetic burlap type materials.
For the most efficient use of
water, construct an earthen dam 4 to 6 inches high around the dripzone
area of the plant after planting. Water will have the ability to
collect in this saucer and move slowly down into the planting hole.
Runoff will be minimized.
Maas Nursery has a tremendous
selection of shrubs for your landscaping needs. Come and see for
yourself why everyone is talking about Maas.
