One of my favorite vines is the clematis. Clematis has beautiful vibrant flowers in purple, pink, red, white, and blue. This time of year clematis is putting on a true show with their tendrils full of lovely blooms. After the blooms are finished clematis has very interesting seed heads. These seed heads can be used in floral arrangements or just leave them on the vine to enjoy.


The clematis here at the nursery are deciduous vines. Some are fast-growing, some are moderate growing. Some clematis bloom in spring, some bloom in summer and still others bloom in fall. Most will thrive in part to full sun, as long as the roots are shaded. There are even a couple that claim to be easy to care for.


Here is a list of some of my favorite clematis:

Niobe Clematis

Blooms – Red flowers in late spring and Summer

Moderate grower

8-12′ long

Part to full sun







Multi-Blue Clematis Blooms –

Double blue flowers in summer


6-8′ long

Part sun







Earnest Markham Clematis

Blooms – Large magenta flowers in summer


8-12′ long

Part to full sun







Comtesse De Bouchaud Clematis

6-10′ long

Blooms – Large pink flowers in late spring

Moderate grower

Part to full sun






Etoile Violette Clematis

Blooms – Purple flowers in mid-summer


8-12′ long

Part to full sun


There are many more to choose from here at the nursery. Clematis is a vine that can easily find a place in your garden and heart!”





Snazzy Brass Trumpet Creeper


Snazzy Brass Trumpet Creeper Vine


Campsis radicans ‘Gresnbr’

Vigorous self attaching vine that produces beautiful golden-yellow, trumpet-shaped flowers.     It is a great humming bird and butterfly plant.

Once established only needs occasional watering. Will grow 25 to 30 feet, when supported. It looses its leaves in the winter.

25-30 ft
USDA Zone:
Key Features:
Drought Tolerant
Growth Rate:
Flower Color:

Pink Jasmine

Pink Jasmine is a beautiful spring flowering evergreen vine. It has fragrant pinkish white flowers and dark green leaves. It is a fast grower and reaches up to 20 feet.

Pink Jasmine takes full to part sun and is winter hardy in most of our winters. It needs an average amount of water and blooms for about a month in the spring.

Plant Profile:

Color: Light pinkish white blooms.

Garden habitat: trellis, arbor, container.

Blooming Season: Spring.

Exposure: Full sun to part sun.

Sweet Pea

Sweet peas are a true heirloom cottage flower. They have been cultivated for their beauty and fragrance for over 300 years. Native to Sicily, sweet peas smell wonderful and come in an endless combination of colors. Here at Maas we have both sweet pea seeds and plants. Sweet peas make great cut flowers. Cut them in the morning, put them in a vase and add instant cheer to any room.

In our area you can plant sweet peas from seed in October through November or mid January through February. Sweet peas take some time to germinate so be patient. Soaking them in water overnight and scarring them slightly with sandpaper can speed up germination. Sweet peas like to grow in the sun but prefer their roots to be cool. Plant annuals around your sweet peas to shade their roots and give a pretty bouquet look to your garden. Sweet peas are great cottage garden plants so pansies, violas, larkspur and poppies make excellent companions. Sweet pea plants and seeds prefer slightly alkaline soil which is good for our area. Keep plants moist but not overwatered. Our winters are usually wet so watering is not a problem.
Now that you have your sweet peas ready to go, give them something to climb on. Most sweet peas are vines reaching 6 to 8 feet. These flowers climb using tendrils so they will climb on almost anything. There are sweet pea varieties for containers and knee high varieties that don’t need staking. Pests are usually rare on these flowers. Keep the slugs and snail off of your small plants with a snail bait. Watch for powdery mildew on your plants. Too much water will make mildew problems worse. Try Actinovate or an organic fungicide to prevent mildew. Also good air circulation around your plants help prevent fungus.
Pick a bouquet of Sweet peas often to keep your flowers coming and your home full of flowers. The more you pick the more flowers you will have. Sweet peas will give you wonderful fragrance and bright cheery blossoms all spring to early summer.
Plant Facts:
Spring Flowering Annual Vine
Prefers alkaline, loamy soil
Spring bloom of pink, purple, white, yellow, blue red, and every color in between.
Full sun and cool roots

Evergreen Wisteria

Evergreen Wisteria is a woody vine with glossy leathery leaves.  Unlike its cousin, the traditional Chinese wisteria , it is not invasive, although it is a vigorous sturdy vine.  It needs a strong support such as a pergola or metal arch.  The deep burgundy-purple blooms are very fragrant and it blooms summer through fall.  It can reach 15-20 feet and should be spaced 6′ apart.  Deadheading isn’t necessary but can encourage more blooms.  It’s cold hardy to 20 degrees F., and should it go through a freeze, will return from the root.  It prefers full sun but a half day is fine as well.  As with all vigorous vines, you may want to heed the old axiom, “Never let your vine grow higher than your ladder can reach”!

English Ivy

English ivy (Hedera helix) is an amazing climbing plant.  This evergreen plant can handle cold temperatures and cover almost anything, make the most beautiful trailing hanging baskets and even give your container plantings a classical look. English ivies can be invasive. Use English Ivy in container gardening, on trellises or on a topiary

Plant Profile:

Hedera helix



english Ivy ,  Photo by Jim Maas

















Part to full sun or shade

Moderate grower

Spread 15’ or more

Blooms inconspicuous

Easy care

Regular water


English Ivy Silverdust used for groundcovers and containers

Hedera helix ‘Silverdust’

Part to full sun

Fast grower

Spread 10-15’

Blooms inconspicuous

Regular water


English Ivy Thorndale very hardy used for groundcovers and containers

Hedera helix ‘Thorndale’

Part to full sun

Fast grower

Spread 15-20’

Blooms inconspicuous

Easy care

Regular water


English Ivy Needlepoint very hardy used for groundcover and containers or trained as a topiary

Hedera helix ‘Needlepoint’

Shade to part sun

Vigorous grower

Blooms inconspicuous


English Ivy Anne Marie (variegated) beautiful as a ground cover and when trailing or trained as a topiary.

Hedera helix ‘Anne Marie’

Bright light to part sun

Moist soil



Evergreen Wisteria

Evergreen wisteria, Millettia reticulata,  is a large vine that can be used to solve many landscape issues.  This is a great plant to create privacy from a too close neighbor, to add shade atop a pergola or an arbor or to hide something ugly and permanent in the garden.

This fast growing vine needs sturdy support to support its full size.  Unlike true wisteria, evergreen wisterias flowers bloom above the glossy dark green foliage in the summer or fall.  These rose-purple blooms are fragrant and eye catching.  Evergreen wisteria is evergreen during warm winters.

Evergreen wisteria can be planted in a raised bed or container in an area that it will receive full sun. Be sure to water regularly.

Plant Profile:

Full sun

Blooms in late summer or fall


12-15’+ height and spread

Muscadine Grapes

Muscadine grapes (Vitis rotundifolia) are native to Texas and most of the southeastern United States. The U.S. Agricultural Department named muscadines, “America’s First Grape.” They were the first cultivated native grapes in the US. The oldest muscadine grapevine is currently growing in Roanoake Island, North Carolina. The “Mother Vine” is purported to be the oldest living grape vine in the world at more than 400 years and covers ½ an acre.

Muscadine grapes differ from European grapes in many ways. These grapes love the hot and humid environments of the southeastern U.S. Because the vines grow in such heat and humidity, the grapes they produce are more resistant to disease and pests than European varieties. Muscadines can also survive well in periods of drought (they do like well-draining, neutral to slightly acidic soil). Also, these grapes need very little care to not only live, but they will thrive and produce well. Muscadine grapes range in color from green to bronze to purple and are produced in small clusters of two or three (sometimes more) on the vine, but not in large bunches. These grapes are known to have thick skin, but the fruit has been improved over the last 35 years to produce sweet grapes with thinner skin. Muscadine grapes have 40 chromosomes where European grapes only have 38. Just an interesting fact to know, but I don’t think you will win a game of Trivial Pursuit with it.

Muscadine grapevines can be planted any time of year. They should be placed in full sun and watered regularly until established. These grapevines should be producing fruit within two to three years. Muscadine grapes will ripen from July to September. After fruiting, these grapevines need to be pruned severely every year. Fruit forms on new shoots that grow from the previous season’s wood. Shoots that form on older wood will usually be sterile. Muscadine grapevines will grow quite heavy and will need support in the form of a trellis or strong (no. 9 is recommended) galvanized wire.

When planting muscadine grapes, it is imperative to know if the plant is female or self-fruiting. If you plant a female variety, you do want to also plant male or self-fruiting varieties to ensure you get fruit.

Not all muscadines are scuppernongs, but all scuppernongs are muscadines. Yes, this is a true statement. Scuppernong refers to a variety of muscadine, but can also refer to all of the varieties that produce bronze color fruit. Scuppernongs were named the state fruit of North Carolina in 2001. These grapes were named after the river where they were first discovered. The word Scuppernong is from the Algonquian Indian word ascopo, which means “sweet bay tree”.

A few varieties of muscadine grapes we carry at Maas Nursery:

Carlos Bronze – self –fruiting, small to medium size bronze fruit, good for wine, juice and table grapes. Sugar content 16 %, very vigorous and productive hardy vine.

Cowart – self-fruiting, very large, blue-black fruit, good for juice and table groups
Sugar content 19%, ripens a little early, vine is vigorous and productive.

Dixie – self-fruiting, large fruit with light red skin, sugar content 18-19%, ripens mid-season, vigorous vine, good cold tolerance.

Late Fry – self-fruiting, large fruit with bronze skin, 20% sugar, ripens late in the season, very cold hardy.

**There are many more varieties of muscadine grapes, but these are very productive, hardy varieties.

Another little tidbit for your trivial pursuit knowledge:
Did you know that Texas grapes saved the French Wine industry in the late 1800’s? In the late 1800’s, 80% of French vineyards were being destroyed by a fungus. To fight this fungus, the French imported labrusca grape rootstock from the US. Unfortunately, the imported labrusca rootstock brought another problem parasite, the phylloxera root louse. Fortunately, a prominent horticulturist in Denison, TX, Dr. Thomas Volney Munson, had produced a rootstock resistant to phylloxera. It was his rootstock from Texas grapes that saved the French wine industry. So, there is a little bit of Texas in most bottles of French wine.

Poison Ivy

By Lori Freed

Poison Ivy, Toxicodendron radicans or Rhus radicans, is ubiquitous. It can literally grow anywhere there is soil, enough sun and a place for a seed to develop. Urban gardens, forests, parks, soccer fields, beaches – EVERYWHERE!!!

Poison ivy is not poisonous. It is quite harmless to everything except sensitive humans. Birds love the white berries. Goats and other livestock can graze on it and do.  Animals eat the berries, leave droppings elsewhere, and new plants emerge.


Urushiol, the oil present in all parts of the plant from root to leaf tip, is the organic allergen and villain of this piece. Direct contact with skin of a sensitive human causes the person’s immune system to send a message to the lymph nodes that send a message back to the skin in the form of an itchy, blistering rash.

People who immediately realize they have been exposed have about 10 minutes to reduce the effects of the urushiol. Washing with COLD water and Dawn Dishwashing Liquid for at least five minutes can break down and remove the oil from the skin. Do not wash with warm water because that will open pores and allow the urushiol to enter the skin.  Carrying alcohol swabs with you when you are in woodsy areas is a good idea. The alcohol can remove much of the urushiol and minimize the reaction.

Unfortunately most people do not know they have been exposed until they develop the rash. This is because they either do not know how to identify poison ivy or the urushiol was spread to them from a secondary source (e.g., petting a dog or cat that’s rolled in it, removing shoes after treading on the plant, reusing contaminated gardening tools, sports or camping equipment, etc.)

It takes years for urushiol to lose its potency, so it is very important to wash all contaminated clothing, gardening tools or camping equipment very well so the rash does not recur. It is also extremely important to never toss poison ivy in a compost pile or burn it.

How to Remove Poison Ivy from Landscape

Materials Needed:


Vinyl or leather gloves

Long–sleeved shirt

Long pants


Closed toe shoes

Duct tape

Heavy duty lawn bags

Personal protective equipment is essential when removing poison ivy from your landscape. Wear goggles and cover as much skin as possible. (All exposed skin can be coated in a barrier cream containing bentoquatam, like IvyBlock.) Tuck your pants into your socks and duct tape in place to prevent gaps.  Also duct tape the gaps where sleeve meets glove. Take care not to wipe sweat with the sleeve of your shirt. It is better if the ground is moist to allow for easier removal of the roots.  Pull from the base to uproot as much of plant as possible.  Immediately bag the uprooted plants and send it to the landfill.  DO NOT COMPOST OR BURN POISON IVY.  Urushiol takes years to break down rendering any compost useless, and it may become airborne when burned, entering eyes and airways and harming your neighbors. Poison ivy has a tendency to return. A heavy layer of mulch can prevent sunlight from touching the remnants, effectively killing it without the use of harsh herbicides. If something more drastic is required, carefully apply a glyphosate-based weed killer like Roundup directly and exclusively to the poison ivy. Wait a few days for the herbicide to migrate to the roots and then remove the dead plants using the above precautions. Wash anything you cannot throw away (e.g., shoes, tools, etc.) with something that will remove the oil such as Dawn Dishwashing Liquid or mineral spirits. It is probably a good idea to replace shoelaces.

Identifying Poison Ivy

Poison Ivy can grow as a vine, shrub or single plant. The leaf pattern is three leaflets with the middle leaflet being slightly larger than the outside leaflets. The stem of the middle leaflet is also a little longer than that of the outside leaflets.  In vine or shrub form the leaves alternate along the stem. New leaves are reddish. Leaves can be shiny or dull. Color of mature leaves varies from light to dark green with reddish tones in fall. Poison ivy never has thorns but can be hairy, especially the larger vines found twining around trees. Remember, every part of the plant contains urushiol.


Hardenbergia violacea ‘Walkabout Purple’ is a compact evergreen flowering vine that is beautiful!  In winter through early spring, wisteria-like clusters of sweet pea-like flowers bloom abundantly.  Walkabout Purple is a compact vine (3 ft x 3 ft spread) that climbs by twining stems.  It needs a trellis, fence or other support to remain upright. It can also be used for groundcover in large areas. The lance-like leaves are attractive when the plant isn’t in bloom. It also does well in hanging baskets.

Hardenbergia needs full sun to light shade and well-draining soil.  Once established, it is drought-tolerant, but make sure to keep the soil moist until then. Fertilize in spring just before new growth, and prune as needed to control spread. 

Hardenbergia attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.  It is native to Australia and New Zealand and can tolerate desert or seacoast.  It is cold hardy from 10-20° F.